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Cortina: Cloud in the valley

A glimpse of what ski resorts were like 20 years ago: antiquated cable cars, wild mountains, some seriously steep slopes and grand architecture.

There's a stubborn streak to Cortina and its residents. A frontier town, it has retained a strong sense of independence through countless foreign occupations and many locals still speak the ancient language of Ladin. They appear impervious to the pressure on ski resorts to renovate dated hotels and replace ancient lift systems, barely seeming to embrace modern skiing at all. However, as you stroll past the elegant boutiques that line Cortina's Corso Italia at dusk, watching highly animated, furry Italians greeting each other beneath the green and white church tower - you won't really care either.

Opening times


  • 26 Nov to late Apr: 0845-1600

Getting there


  • Calalzo-Pieve di Cadore train station - 1 hours
  • Venice airport - 2 hours

Pros

Cons

 

Stupendously beautiful mountains.

Outdated lift system.

 

Varied terrain and a fantastic beginner's area.

Fragmented ski areas, which are virtually all a bus ride away from wherever you are.

 

Unique atmosphere - has the glamour of St Moritz without the pretension plus a large dollop of Italian dolce vita and humour.

Expensive by Italian standards.

 

Proximity to airport - and the chance to visit Venice.

 

You can ski from Cortina to...

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