Little more than the startlingly bright yellow Hotel Portillo, set beside the potholed main road from Chile to Argentina. This charming old hotel was built in the 1940s and owned and run by the Chilean government until they sold it to two Americans in 1962. Beside it are two small lodges offering dormitory-style rooms. The slopes consist of two unlinked sectors that are generally crowd-free and snow-sure, offering some fabulous off-piste terrain and steep powder bowls - though much of it involves hiking or heli-skiing to. There are several short black pistes and a choice of longer blue runs, but the area really suits experts best. A unique novelty is the Chilean draglift - the Va et Vient linked button tows that skiers ride four or five abreast. combine with one or two other areas for a varied and compelling destination.