Open slopes dominate, but there are woodland runs lower down. The writing, lifts and pistes on the map are ridiculously small and difficult to read. Signposting is adequate. It's a shame that many runs that could be classified blue are red, leading to uncertainty for timid intermediates. The attraction for experts and confident intermediates is the off-piste, with great runs from the high points of the lift system and some excellent heli-skiing. The Indren cable car accesses a lovely itinerary as well as more serious routes to Alagna (a guide is essential; and when we visited on a busy weekend last season, a patroller was checking that everyone going up the cable car was wearing a transceiver). There are few black pistes and most are not steep. There is excellent intermediate piste skiing, with some notably long runs from the ridges to the villages. The run down to Alagna is 1760m vertical and 7km long, for example. Although the slopes span vast distances, and give a great sense of travel, they don't add up to a huge amount of skiing. The lift company eventually accepted our view that its claimed run lengths needed, more or less, to be halved. The total for the linked area is now only 73km. The main three-valley network is very simple: there is basically one main way down each mountainside. Champoluc and Gressoney have worthwhile local areas of pistes in addition but Alagna does not. The main lift system is vulnerable to bad weather, but both Champoluc and Gressoney have sheltered alternatives. This is not a notably snowy area, but altitude helps, as does extensive snowmaking. Grooming is thorough - bumps on the pistes don't last long. The important lifts are mainly fast chairs and gondolas. But sunny weekends bring crowds, and one or two queuing problems in the Champoluc and Alagna valleys. Mountain restaurants are listed on the piste map. They are generally simple, friendly and good value, and there are some notably good ones too.


  • Resort altitude: 1200m
  • Lower slopes: 1200m
  • Upper slopes: 3275m
  • Total pistes: 73km

Good For

  • Advanced
  • Intermediate
In Resort
  • Village Charm
On Slope
  • Fast Lifts
  • No Queues
  • Snow Reliability

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