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Sweden's biggest ski area, with lots to do off the slopes as well as on. Not great for keen skiers but good for families wanting a change from the Alps. The centre of this small lakeside town has old, pretty, coloured wooden buildings and some larger modern additions. Lodgings are spread out along the valley. There are two separate areas of slopes linked by a ski-bus. In both areas, the main lifts from the valley are fast. But nearly all other lifts are drags. A new snowmaking system was installed for the Duved area in 2014/15 and pistes there have been widened. The slopes offer mainly beginner and intermediate treelined terrain, with two windswept bowls above, which are prone to closure. Experts will find the slopes limited, especially if the high bowls are closed. But there is a lot of off-piste and guided heli-skiing was new for 2014/15. For intermediates there are steep, sometimes icy, black and red runs back to town, and lots of pretty blue runs through the trees. You get a real sense of travelling around on the main area. Beginners have good facilities in both sectors. Queues are rare. There are three terrain parks and 88km of groomed cross-country trails. The ski school has a good reputation, and children have special areas. Kids under seven get free lift passes if they are wearing helmets. Mountain huts are good. The best central hotel is the charming old Diplomat Åregården. There are ample apartments and cabins and lots of restaurants, from Japanese to Italian. Après-ski is lively, with the Tott, Fjällgården and Åregården busy from 3pm. Off-slope diversions are plentiful.